Pistachio Ice Cream with Rhubarb Jam Swirl

If you’re looking for a homemade pistachio ice cream that actually tastes like pistachios, (read: not almond extract flavored, and not artificial green) this is it. I blended my favorite homemade custard ice cream base with a homemade two-ingredient pistachio paste, then swirled it with a tart rhubarb jam that cuts right through the richness. This ice cream is perfectly balanced and not too sweet.

This pistachio rhubarb ice cream makes approximately 3 pints and yields 12 half-cup servings. You’ll need a compressor-style ice cream maker and a food processor, but the technique is straightforward, and everything can be made in stages over two days.

Why Pistachio Ice Cream with Rhubarb?

Pistachio is my husband’s flavor. Not one of his favorites—the one. If I ask what he wants for dessert, the answer is almost always pistachio ice cream, so it’s become the flavor I keep coming back to, the one I’m always trying to get exactly right. Making pistachio ice cream with pistachio paste is the version that finally stuck.

Technical Profile

This is a French-style custard base, which means egg yolks, a cook, and a temper.

• Total Fat: 19% — at the higher end due to the pistachio paste
• Total Sugars: 19%
• MSNF: 8%
• Water: 52%
• POD: 135.75 — slightly sweeter than a neutral base, which balances the bitterness of the pistachios without being cloying

If you want to understand what these numbers mean and how to adjust them for your own recipes, my base ratio guide covers it all.

The rhubarb swirl came from a happy accident: leftover jam from a batch of Happy Marriage bars, folded it into a batch of pistachio ice cream on a whim. It was such a good flavor pairing that it’s become a springtime staple. If you want the full story (and the full jam recipe), it’s all in the rhubarb jam swirl post—but the short version is: make the jam first, chill it overnight, and don’t skip it.

Tips for Making Pistachio Custard Ice Cream with a Compressor Machine

• On the pistachio paste: You’re making it from scratch here, so it won’t be as silky as commercial paste. Blend it as long as your food processor allows, and add the neutral oil to help it along, but don’t worry about a perfectly smooth result. Once you blend it into the warm custard, you won’t notice the texture. If you want to strain out any remaining coarse bits at that stage, go ahead.
• On the base ratio: Pistachio paste adds fat, which means this base is already richer than a standard custard. The extra fat from the paste creates a dense, creamy texture and helps suppress iciness.
• On the swirl technique: Less is more. Dollop the jam over a layer of churned ice cream, swirl once or twice with a chopstick or butter knife, then add the next layer. Overworking it turns the swirl into a tint. You want defined ribbons.
• On timing: This is a two-day recipe, so build that into your planning. Using a compressor ice cream maker helps it churn faster, but good things still take time!
  • Day one: make the custard and the jam.
  • Day two: churn, swirl, and freeze.

Pistachio Ice Cream with Rhubarb Jam Swirl

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Prep Time: 35 minutes mins

Cook Time: 30 minutes mins

Chill & Churn Time: 8 hours hrs 30 minutes mins

Total Time: 9 hours hrs 35 minutes mins

Servings: 12 servings (3 pints)

Ingredients  

Ice Cream Base:

• 150 g cane sugar
• 0.3 g guar gum (⅛ tsp, optional)
• 60 g skim milk powder
• 400 g whole milk (3.25% fat)
• 400 g heavy cream (36% fat)
• 45 g egg yolks (from 3 medium eggs)
• 4 g almond extract (1 tsp, optional)

Pistachio Paste:

• 120 g shelled pistachios
• 4 g neutral oil

Rhubarb Jam:

• 113 g fresh rhubarb (¼ lb, chopped)
• 113 g cane sugar
• 7 g fresh lemon juice (½ tbsp)

Equipment

• Food Processor
• 2-Quart Saucepan
• Whisk
• Instant-Read Thermometer
• Fine-Mesh Sieve
• Ice Bath
• Immersion Blender
• Compressor-Style Ice Cream Maker (I used the Lello 4080)

Method

1. Gather all of the ingredients and measure them out. Crack 45 g egg yolks into a small bowl and whisk well. Set aside.
   

Make the Pistachio Paste:

1. Place 120 g shelled pistachios in a food processor and blend until finely minced. Add 4 g neutral oil and continue blending until it forms a relatively smooth paste. Set aside while you cook the custard base.
   
You can process for longer for a smoother result. You can also optionally strain out any chunky bits later, so the final texture is not as important here.

Make the Pistachio Ice Cream Base:

1. Pour the 150 g cane sugar and 0.3 g guar gum (if using) into a 2-quart saucepan and whisk.
   
2. Add the 60 g skim milk powder and whisk.
   
3. Prepare an ice bath by filling a large bowl with cold water and several handfuls of ice cubes. Set aside.
   
4. Pour 400 g whole milk into the pan with the sugar/SMP mixture, and whisk until the sugar/SMP have mostly dissolved.
   
5. Add 400 g heavy cream and whisk again until the mixture feels smooth.
   
6. Gently heat the pot over medium-low, whisking constantly, until it reaches 110°F on an instant-read thermometer. Once it reaches temperature, immediately remove it from the heat.
   
7. Take a ladleful of the warm cream mixture, and stream it slowly into the egg yolks, whisking vigorously to prevent curdling. Once the mixture is smooth, pour the egg/cream mixture back into the saucepan, and whisk well until the liquid takes on a yellowish hue.
   
8. Return the pan to medium-low heat, and continue warming, whisking constantly, until it reaches 165°F. Once at temperature, immediately remove it from the heat.
   
9. Set a fine-mesh sieve over the smaller bowl you set aside for the ice bath. Strain the hot custard into the bowl.
   
10. Place the bowl into the ice bath and whisk often for about 15 minutes, or until the custard reaches about 75°F.
    
11. Add all of the pistachio paste and use an immersion blender to blend it into the ice cream base until everything has coalesced into a creamy custard. Add 4 g almond extract now, if using.
    
Taste and add a pinch of salt if needed. I used salted pistachios, so I did not add additional salt.
12. Cover the custard with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or up to overnight.
    

Make the Rhubarb Jam:

1. While the ice cream base chills, clean the immersion blender — you'll need it again. Chop the rhubarb and juice the lemon.
   
2. Add 113 g fresh rhubarb, 113 g cane sugar, and 7 g fresh lemon juice to a medium saucepan set over medium-high heat, stirring until the sugar melts. Continue cooking, stirring frequently, until the mixture reaches 224°F (the rhubarb will break down, and the mixture will go from chunky to saucy as it climbs). Remove from heat and blend.
   
For a full visual walkthrough of the jam, see my rhubarb jam swirl post.
3. Pour into a heatproof container and cool at room temperature for at least 1 hour, then refrigerate until completely cold before using.
   

Churn and Swirl the Ice Cream

1. Once the custard has chilled, pre-chill your ice cream maker according to the instructions. Pour in the custard with the machine running.
   
2. Allow the custard to churn according to the machine's instructions. This will take anywhere from 20-45 minutes, depending on the machine.
   
You'll know it's ready when the machine starts to slow down and struggle, and the ice cream has a soft-serve consistency. Ideal draw temperature is 18-21°F.
3. Fill each container about ⅓ full with pistachio ice cream, then dollop 1-2 tablespoons of rhubarb jam on top. Use a chopstick or butter knife to gently swirl the jam into the ice cream. Repeat these steps until each pint is full.
   
4. Press wax paper onto the surface of each pint to prevent ice crystals, and set in the freezer for at least 4 hours, or overnight, to fully set and age.

Notes

Yield: Approx. 3 pints. A serving is ½ cup.

Custard Tips:

• I like guar gum, but feel free to swap for your favorite stabilizer or stabilizer blend, or leave it out completely. If leaving it out, add an extra egg yolk.
• Get all of the ingredients measured out, and set up your ice bath before you start cooking. Things move fast!
• If you don’t have a thermometer (get one!), the milk will start to steam when it’s close to 110°F, and the custard will coat the back of a spoon when it’s close to 165°F.
• I always strain my custard after cooking to remove any potential cooked egg bits. They’ll ruin the flavor and texture of your ice cream if you leave them in.
• I recommend blending the pistachio paste into the cooked custard for a smoother result, but you can stir/whisk if you don’t have an immersion blender.
• If your finished ice cream is coming out icy or grainy, it’s almost always one of three things: the custard wasn’t cold enough before churning, the draw temperature was too warm, or storage is the culprit. A troubleshooting guide is coming soon.

Jam Tips:

• The mix will look super dry at first, but I promise, all that sugar will melt.
• Stir often to prevent burning.
• The rhubarb will start to break down as the jam approaches its final temp, so you don’t need to chop it too finely. 
• I recommend blending the jam for a smoother result, but you can skip that step if you like chunks.
• Let the jam cool completely (I recommend chilling overnight in the fridge) before adding to the custard. This will help it set faster.

Churning Tips:

• Stir the custard well before straining it into the machine. This removes any large nut pieces and creates a more uniform final texture.
• I like to dollop the jam on top of a scoop or two of the ice cream, then swirl with a chopstick to create ribbons.

Storage Instructions: Store ice cream in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 1 month.